What's the secret to Kim Kardashian's prominent cheekbones, Keira Knightley's defined jawline, and Michelle Williams' dainty nose? Here's a little secret: It's all in their makeup artists' ability to contour.
However, the strong stripes of bronzer and highlighter that work for a photo shoot or red carpet event would look downright freakish at the grocery store or dinner table. So the trick is balance: applying enough product so that your features are defined, but then blending enough so there are no tell-tale lines.
However, the strong stripes of bronzer and highlighter that work for a photo shoot or red carpet event would look downright freakish at the grocery store or dinner table. So the trick is balance: applying enough product so that your features are defined, but then blending enough so there are no tell-tale lines.
The other trick: using the right contouring techniques for your face shape. The goal with contouring is to both define features, like cheekbones, but also to get the face closer to an oval face shape, which is considered ideal (if you have an oval face, you're already halfway there). That's why I'll show you exactly how to contour five different face shapes: oval, round, square, heart, and oblong.
Consider this your face-contouring-made-simple guide: Just find your face shape, follow my step-by-step instructions, and be prepared for your friends and family to wonder if you've had work done. I'll leave it up to you whether to reveal your secret or not.
Consider this your face-contouring-made-simple guide: Just find your face shape, follow my step-by-step instructions, and be prepared for your friends and family to wonder if you've had work done. I'll leave it up to you whether to reveal your secret or not.
Heart: Before you contour
Heart-shaped faces usually have prominent cheekbones and chins, like the model does here, so it's important not to over-contour, which will make your face look pointier.
If you're new to contouring, it's important to know the basics. You're always doing two things: the first is shading, which makes an area of skin recede from view, and the second is highlighting, which creates the illusion of bringing a feature forward. Where you put the shading and highlights depends on your features and face shape. Next, see how to contour a heart-shaped face.
If you're new to contouring, it's important to know the basics. You're always doing two things: the first is shading, which makes an area of skin recede from view, and the second is highlighting, which creates the illusion of bringing a feature forward. Where you put the shading and highlights depends on your features and face shape. Next, see how to contour a heart-shaped face.
Heart: Where to contour
Step 1: Start by using a foundation brush to apply primer to your face (Not to prime is a crime, and that doing so in this case will give you a softer, more natural finish).
Step 2: Using a contouring product that's one to two shades darker than your natural skin tone (like a stick or cream foundation), apply product right under your cheekbones and on your temples. Tip: In order to figure out where you need to contour beneath your cheekbones, just find where your tragus is (the central part of your ear) and blend downwards from that point, at an angle.
Step 3: Apply the contouring shade along the sides of your nose, under the tip of your nose, and in the crease of your eyelid. Use your fingers to apply; the warmth from your hands will warm the product and allow it to glide on smoothly.
Step 4: Apply a highlighting product (or a foundation that's a shade or two lighter than your skin tone) to the following areas: the bridge of your nose, just above your cheekbones, your chin (to make it look a little more round), right above your lips (to make them look more full), and along your jawline.
Tip: Be careful not to over-highlight your cheekbones, since that is the flashiest part of your face when you smile.
Step 2: Using a contouring product that's one to two shades darker than your natural skin tone (like a stick or cream foundation), apply product right under your cheekbones and on your temples. Tip: In order to figure out where you need to contour beneath your cheekbones, just find where your tragus is (the central part of your ear) and blend downwards from that point, at an angle.
Step 3: Apply the contouring shade along the sides of your nose, under the tip of your nose, and in the crease of your eyelid. Use your fingers to apply; the warmth from your hands will warm the product and allow it to glide on smoothly.
Step 4: Apply a highlighting product (or a foundation that's a shade or two lighter than your skin tone) to the following areas: the bridge of your nose, just above your cheekbones, your chin (to make it look a little more round), right above your lips (to make them look more full), and along your jawline.
Tip: Be careful not to over-highlight your cheekbones, since that is the flashiest part of your face when you smile.
Heart: The final look
Step 1: Blend the darkest parts of your face first. You can use your fingers or apply primer to your brush before blending for a dewy finish. Blend downwards from the tragus (your ear) toward your chin/jawline, then blend downward on your nose and temples.
Step 2: Apply highlighter on your lids to lift your eye and brow, then apply white eyeliner on your lower rim to open and brighten your eyes (this is great if you are tired and need a lift). Smudge under your lower lid with your contouring shade to finish your eyes.
Step 3: To finish, dust blush across the apples of your cheeks for some color.
Step 2: Apply highlighter on your lids to lift your eye and brow, then apply white eyeliner on your lower rim to open and brighten your eyes (this is great if you are tired and need a lift). Smudge under your lower lid with your contouring shade to finish your eyes.
Step 3: To finish, dust blush across the apples of your cheeks for some color.
Oval: Before you contour
If you have an oval face like the model, you don't really need to "correct" anything. But you can bring out your cheekbones and slim other features (the nose for example) if you'd like. One thing to keep in mind: your contouring color should be around two shades darker than your natural skin tone -- any more will look too dramatic. Likewise, your highlighting shade should be two shades lighter than your skin tone. You can use contouring/highlighting products, powder, or foundations to contour.
Oval: Where to contour
Step 1: Apply your contouring product under your cheekbones. Tip: When shading, do not go further than the end of your brow when applying shade under your cheekbones.
Step 2: Apply contouring down the sides of your nose and apply highlighter down the middle (use the same techniques as the heart-shape face). Tip: If you have a long nose and want to make it look shorter, only apply highlighter at the bridge of your nose, not all the way down.
Step 3: Apply highlighter to the following areas: above your lips, above your cheekbones, on your eyelids.
Step 4: Apply blush to the apples of your cheeks (in between the contouring and highlighting stripes).
Step 2: Apply contouring down the sides of your nose and apply highlighter down the middle (use the same techniques as the heart-shape face). Tip: If you have a long nose and want to make it look shorter, only apply highlighter at the bridge of your nose, not all the way down.
Step 3: Apply highlighter to the following areas: above your lips, above your cheekbones, on your eyelids.
Step 4: Apply blush to the apples of your cheeks (in between the contouring and highlighting stripes).
Oval: The final look
Step 1: Finish by blending all the stripes of highlighter and contouring product so there are no telltale lines.
Step 2: Smudge the contouring product underneath your eyes along the lower outer rim and line the lower inner rim with white eyeliner to make your eyes stand out.
Step 2: Smudge the contouring product underneath your eyes along the lower outer rim and line the lower inner rim with white eyeliner to make your eyes stand out.
Square: Before you contour
When contouring a square face shape like the model here, you want to focus on softening and rounding the jawline. It helps to contour the forehead to give it more of an oval shape.
Square: Where to contour
Step 1: Apply contouring product to these areas: under your cheekbones and around your jawline (but skip shading your chin), your temples, sides of your nose, the tip of your nose, and the top of your eyelids.
Step 2: Apply highlighter to these areas: the bridge of your nose, just above your cheekbones, and the center of your forehead.
Step 2: Apply highlighter to these areas: the bridge of your nose, just above your cheekbones, and the center of your forehead.
Square: The final look
Step 1: Blend the contouring and highlighter stripes with a brush (apply primer to the brush to help blend the product).
Step 2: Dust cheekbones with blush, but only do a light coating. Too much will accentuate your jawline and the angles of your face.
Step 3: Finish by defining your eyes: apply highlighter to your lids and contouring in the crease and smudged along your lower lashline. Apply white eyeliner on your lower inner rim.
Step 2: Dust cheekbones with blush, but only do a light coating. Too much will accentuate your jawline and the angles of your face.
Step 3: Finish by defining your eyes: apply highlighter to your lids and contouring in the crease and smudged along your lower lashline. Apply white eyeliner on your lower inner rim.
Round: Before you contour
The model and most 'round' face-shapes are always eager to learn how to contour the round face. It is really simple: just shade around the edges of the face to minimize the round lines, then highlight the center to balance.
Round: Where to contour
Step 1: Apply contouring product to the following areas: under your cheekbones, along your jawline, your temples, along the sides and tip of your nose, and the crease of the eye.
Step 2: Apply highlighter to these areas: underneath your brow bone, your eyelid, the bridge of your nose, and your cheekbones. Tip: Highlight the center of your face as much as possible in order to draw attention to the center of your face (instead of the roundness of your jawline).
Step 2: Apply highlighter to these areas: underneath your brow bone, your eyelid, the bridge of your nose, and your cheekbones. Tip: Highlight the center of your face as much as possible in order to draw attention to the center of your face (instead of the roundness of your jawline).
Round: The final look
Step 1: Blend all contouring and highlighting with a brush. Tip: When blending your cheekbones, blend both upwards and downwards so the product looks even and there are no obvious lines. When blending your eye area, go side to side (think a windshield wiper motion).
Step 2: Define your eyes by applying contouring along your lower lashline and white eyeliner in your inner rim. Tip: If you have a round face, skip blush or highlighter on the apples of your cheeks (it will just make them look rounder). Instead, apply it just above your cheekbone to bring out your bone structure.
Step 2: Define your eyes by applying contouring along your lower lashline and white eyeliner in your inner rim. Tip: If you have a round face, skip blush or highlighter on the apples of your cheeks (it will just make them look rounder). Instead, apply it just above your cheekbone to bring out your bone structure.
Oblong: Before you contour
The main thing to keep in mind with an oblong face like the models is to shorten the length of the face by minimizing the chin and emphasizing the cheekbones.
Oblong: Where to contour
Step 1: Apply contour to these areas: the chin, underneath the cheekbones, around the edge of your entire face.
Step 2: Apply highlighter to the following areas: your eyelids, halfway down the bridge of your nose, your cheekbones, center of your forehead, and browbone.
Step 2: Apply highlighter to the following areas: your eyelids, halfway down the bridge of your nose, your cheekbones, center of your forehead, and browbone.
Oblong: The final look
Step 1: Using your fingers or a brush, blend all the contouring and highlighter stripes on your face, using primer for a softer finish.
Step 2: Apply additional highlighter or shimmer power to your eyelids and the bridge of your nose, but skip your chin, since that will only make your face look longer.
Step 3: Finish your look by applying white eyeliner to your lower inner rim and contouring shade under your lower lashline.
Step 2: Apply additional highlighter or shimmer power to your eyelids and the bridge of your nose, but skip your chin, since that will only make your face look longer.
Step 3: Finish your look by applying white eyeliner to your lower inner rim and contouring shade under your lower lashline.
Bonus: Contouring with powder
If you want a subtler look -- and one that's faster as well -- try contouring using powders instead of liquids or creams. You can use bronzer and powder highlighters to quickly apply and blend. Since powder is a less dramatic finish, you can use shades that contrast more with your skin tone (up to four shades lighter or darker). A matte bronzer powder and highlighter was used to contour the models oval face.
Contouring with powder: the final look
Step 1: Apply bronzer under your cheekbones and blush directly on top of your cheekbones.
Step 2: Apply highlighter to just above your cheekbones, the center of your forehead, and your eyelids.
Step 3: Define your eyes by smudging bronzer along your lower lashline and along your crease, then finish with white eyeliner along your lower inner rim.
Step 2: Apply highlighter to just above your cheekbones, the center of your forehead, and your eyelids.
Step 3: Define your eyes by smudging bronzer along your lower lashline and along your crease, then finish with white eyeliner along your lower inner rim.
I would just like to apologise for the fact that this is a very long post, but I really wanted to help people with their countouring and highlighting. It is tough at the best of times, and even I can sometimes struggle to get it right.
Hope this was helpful xx
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